Contents
A handmade notebook begins with stacked folded sheets and ends — if the process goes well — with a solid, flat-opening book. Between those two points lies a sequence of steps that compound on each other: a misaligned fold produces a misaligned spine, which produces uneven pages. Attention to each stage reduces the need to correct errors later.
Preparing Signatures
A signature is a group of sheets folded together to form a section of the book. Typical signature sizes range from 4 to 8 sheets (16 to 32 pages per signature). Thicker signatures are harder to sew neatly and produce a more pronounced swell at the spine; thinner signatures result in more sewing passes but a flatter spine.
Steps for preparing signatures:
- Cut all sheets to the same dimensions. For an A5 notebook (148 × 210 mm), cut text paper to A4 (210 × 297 mm) — each A4 sheet will fold to two A5 pages.
- Fold each sheet individually using a bone folder. Fold in the direction of the grain (see the Paper Selection Guide for grain direction testing).
- Group the folded sheets into signatures of equal size. Nest the sheets inside each other with folds aligned.
- Press each completed signature under weight for several minutes to flatten the fold.
- Collate all signatures in order and mark the spine edge lightly in pencil.
Grain direction matters here. Folding against the grain produces a resistant, rough fold that does not stay closed and creates tension in the text block. All sheets should be folded with grain parallel to the spine.
Piercing Sewing Holes
Sewing holes are punched through the folded spine of each signature. The number and placement of holes depends on the binding structure; a basic kettle stitch pattern uses 4–5 holes per signature.
Consistent hole placement is essential — if holes do not align across all signatures, the sewing thread will pull at an angle and distort the spine. Two methods for consistent piercing:
- Template strip — cut a strip of card the same height as the signature and mark hole positions. Use this strip as a guide when piercing each signature.
- Sewing cradle — a V-shaped cradle holds the signature open while holes are pierced from the inside. More stable than piercing freehand.
Hole diameter should match the thread weight. A needle that fits through the hole with slight resistance will keep the thread from pulling too freely and producing loose knots.
Sewing the Text Block
For a basic sewn-board notebook (softcover or hardcover), kettle stitch sewing is the standard approach. The thread links each signature to the previous one via a kettle stitch — a loop through the thread of the preceding signature at each end of the spine.
Procedure for kettle stitch sewing:
- Cut thread to approximately four times the height of the book for each signature (adjust based on hole count).
- Wax the thread by drawing it over a block of beeswax or paraffin. Waxing reduces tangling and makes the thread easier to pull through tight holes.
- Sew the first signature end-to-end, exiting and entering through the sewing holes.
- Place the second signature on top of the first. Sew through the second signature, making a kettle stitch (loop through the thread emerging from the first signature) at each end.
- Continue adding signatures in this pattern, making a kettle stitch at each end of every row.
- Tie off after the final signature with a square knot at the kettle stitch.
The sewn text block will have a slight swell at the spine — the thickness added by the thread on each pass. This swell is reduced by pressing the text block firmly before proceeding.
Preparing the Spine
After sewing, the text block spine is glued and lined before covers are attached. This consolidates the spine and provides a stable surface for the endpapers.
- Apply a thin, even coat of PVA adhesive to the spine with a brush. Work the glue into the gaps between signatures.
- While the glue is still tacky, apply a strip of mull (open-weave cloth, also called super or crash) cut to the height of the text block minus 10mm on each end. Press firmly.
- Apply a second thin coat of PVA over the mull.
- Cut a strip of thin kraft paper to the same dimensions as the mull and apply over the second glue coat.
- Allow to dry completely under weight (at least one hour).
This laminated spine — PVA + mull + paper — distributes stress during opening across the cloth layer rather than concentrating it at the thread. It substantially extends the working life of a sewn binding.
Cutting and Preparing Covers
Cover boards are cut to extend slightly beyond the text block on three sides (top, bottom, and fore-edge). This overhang — called the square — is typically 3mm on each side for an A5 notebook. The spine edge of the board is flush with the spine of the text block.
For a softcover notebook:
- Cut a single piece of cover card (250–350 gsm) to wrap front, spine, and back in one piece.
- Score the spine fold lines using a bone folder against a metal rule before folding.
- Attach the text block by gluing the endpapers to the inside of the cover.
For a hardcover notebook:
- Cut two boards (front and back) from 2mm grey board, plus a spine spacer cut to the width of the sewn text block.
- Lay boards and spacer on the cover material (book cloth or decorative paper), leaving 3–5mm gaps between spine spacer and boards.
- Glue the cover material over the boards, mitering the corners and folding the edges under.
- Allow to dry under weight before attaching the text block.
Finishing and Trimming
A trimmed text block produces uniform page edges. Trimming is done after sewing and spine gluing, before casing in. A guillotine gives the cleanest result; a sharp craft knife against a steel rule is adequate for small batches.
Trim only the fore-edge (the side opposite the spine). Top and bottom edges are usually left with a small square from the board overhang rather than trimmed flush.
Additional finishing steps:
- Ribbon bookmark — a length of grosgrain or satin ribbon glued to the inside of the spine before casing in. The ribbon should extend to at least the fore-edge when the book is closed.
- Head and tail bands — decorative woven bands glued to the top and bottom of the spine. Traditionally structural (protecting the spine ends), now mostly decorative in hand-bound notebooks.
- Closure — an elastic band, leather strap, or magnetic closure glued to the inside of the back cover and looping over the fore-edge.
For reference on historical binding structures, the Wikipedia article on Bookbinding provides a documented overview of techniques from medieval codices to contemporary practice. Wikimedia Commons also maintains an extensive Bookbinding category with images of tools, materials, and binding structures.